Welcome to pool ownership! It can be incredibly rewarding—but it also comes with responsibilities. Here’s a solid overview of what every new pool owner should know:

🧪 Water Chemistry Basics

Keeping your water balanced is essential for health, safety, and protecting your pool equipment.

• Chlorine (or alternative sanitizer): Kills bacteria and algae.

  • Ideal range: 1–3 ppm (parts per million)

• pH: Measures how acidic or basic the water is.

  • Ideal range: 7.2–7.6

• Alkalinity: Buffers pH to prevent wild swings.

  • Ideal range: 80–120 ppm

• Calcium Hardness: Prevents corrosion or scaling.

  • Ideal range: 200–400 ppm

• Cyanuric Acid (Stabilizer): Protects chlorine from sunlight (only needed for outdoor pools).

  • Ideal range: 30–50 ppm for chlorine pools

➡️ Tip: Test your water at least once a week with test strips or a drop test kit.

🧼 Maintenance Routine

Create a weekly routine to keep your pool clean and safe.

• Skim leaves and debris off the surface daily or every few days.

• Brush walls and steps weekly to prevent algae buildup.

• Vacuum the floor weekly—manually or with a robotic cleaner.

• Clean your filter regularly (frequency depends on filter type):

  • Cartridge: Rinse when pressure rises 8–10 psi over baseline.

  • Sand: Backwash every 1–2 weeks or as needed.

  • DE: Backwash and recharge with new DE powder when needed.

🌀 Circulation & Filtration

Run your pool pump long enough each day to cycle all the water at least once.

• General rule: 1 hour per 10°F of outdoor temperature (e.g., 8–10 hours in hot weather).

• Check water circulation: Make sure returns are moving water well and the skimmer is pulling debris.

🧰 Equipment Know-How

Understand the basic components of your pool system:

• Pump: Moves water through the filter.

• Filter: Removes debris and small particles.

• Skimmer: Collects floating debris.

• Main Drain: Pulls water from the pool bottom.

• Return Jets: Push clean water back into the pool.

• Heater (optional): Warms the water.

• Chlorinator or Salt Cell: Automates chlorine delivery.

🧯 Safety Tips

• Install proper fencing and gates.

• Use a pool cover when not in use (especially safety covers if you have kids or pets).

• Store chemicals in a cool, dry, locked area.

• Never mix pool chemicals—can cause dangerous reactions.

🏷️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Letting chlorine get too low: invites algae and bacteria.

• Overusing algaecide: can cause foaming or buildup.

• Not brushing: leads to biofilm and algae growth.

• Ignoring filter pressure: a dirty filter strains the system.

• Topping off water without testing afterward: fresh water changes chemistry.

Priming your pool pump means filling it with water so it can begin pulling water through the system properly. If a pool pump runs dry, it could burn out the motor or damage seals, so priming ensures it has the water it needs to create suction.

Here’s a step-by-step guide to priming your pool pump:

🧰 What You’ll Need

• Garden hose (ideally nearby)

• Pool pump access (lid off)

• Skimmer and main drain valves clearly labeled (if you have them)

✅ Step-by-Step Instructions

1. Turn off the pump

   • Always start by turning the pump off at the breaker or control panel.

2. Open the pump lid

   • Locate the pump strainer housing (the part with a clear lid), and remove the lid.

   • Inspect the basket — clean out any leaves, debris, or gunk.

   • Put the basket back in the strainer housing. Make sure it fits properly—many types of of pump baskets have grooves and/or an opening that must open towards skimmer/main drain lines. Improper placement could cause equipment damage or blockage of pool lines.

3. Fill the pump with water

   • Use a garden hose to fill the pump basket and housing completely.

   • Let it overflow a bit — you’re pushing water into the suction lines too.

   • If you have a check valve on the suction line, water might not flow very far backward. That’s okay — just fill the basket fully.

4. Check the lid O-ring

   • Inspect the rubber gasket on the pump lid.

   • Clean it and lubricate it with pool-safe lube (silicone-based) if needed.

   • Make sure the lid is free of dirt to get a tight seal.

5. Re-seal the pump lid

   • Put the lid back on securely — no cross-threading.

   • A loose or cracked lid will pull air and prevent priming.

6. Open suction valves

   • If you have valves controlling suction (skimmer, main drain, vacuum port), open one fully (usually skimmer) and partially open the other if needed.

   • Keep things simple: start with just one suction source.

7. Turn the pump back on

   • Power up the pump and watch through the clear lid:

     • You should see water fill the basket within 30–60 seconds.

     • You may hear gurgling or see bubbles — that’s normal at first.

8. Wait for full prime

   • The pump may take 1–3 minutes to fully prime.

   • You’ll know it’s primed when the lid is full of water, no air is swirling, and the return jets in the pool are strong and steady.

9. Adjust valves if needed

   • Once the pump is fully primed, you can gradually open the other suction valves to balance the flow from multiple sources (e.g., open the main drain or vacuum line).

🛠️ If It Won’t Prime:

• Pump lid isn’t sealed properly → check O-ring, lubricate if necessary and re-tighten.

• Air leak in suction line → check all unions and fittings before the pump.

• Water level too low → water must be halfway up the skimmer mouth or higher.

• Clog in the suction line → try backflushing or using a drain king to clear it.

Great work getting to this stage—killing the algae and floccing is half the battle! Now you’re ready for the critical step: vacuuming all that settled debris to waste, not back through your filter.

🔧 What You’ll Need:

1. Vacuum Head – Weighted vacuum head for concrete/gunite pools, or a flexible one for vinyl.

2. Telescopic Pole – To attach the vacuum head.

3. Vacuum Hose – Long enough to reach every part of the pool from the skimmer.

4. Multiport Valve (on your filter) – It must have a “WASTE” setting (sometimes labeled “DRAIN”).

   • If you have a cartridge filter without a waste setting, you’ll need a waste discharge hose and a vacuum-to-waste bypass setup (call us if you need help with this part).

5. Pump running well-primed – Make sure it's not sucking air.

✅ Step-by-Step Instructions:

1. Prep the System

• Turn off the pump.

• Set the multiport valve to “WASTE.”

• If using a waste hose, unroll it and direct the flow where it won’t cause erosion or flooding.

2. Assemble the Vacuum

• Attach the vacuum head to the pole and the hose to the vac head.

• Lower the vacuum head and hose into the pool, filling the hose with water to remove air (use the return jet to help prime it, or feed the hose straight down into the pool).

3. Start Vacuuming

• Attach the other end of the hose into the skimmer suction port—only once it's completely full of water to avoid losing prime.

• Turn on the pump. Water will go straight out to waste.

• Vacuum slowly and carefully to avoid stirring up the settled floc.

4. Work in Sections

• Divide the pool mentally into quadrants and vacuum one at a time.

• If visibility gets bad, stop and wait a few hours for particles to settle again.

5. Watch Your Water Level

• Vacuuming to waste removes water fast.

• Monitor the water level and refill as needed with a garden hose.

6. Clean-Up

• When done, turn off the pump.

• Rinse your vacuum hose and head to avoid mold or mildew.

• Return the multiport valve to FILTER, then turn the pump back on.

💡 Pro Tips:

• Don’t use an automatic cleaner—it will stir everything up.

• Turn off pool returns or aim them downward to avoid disturbing debris.

• If the floc didn’t settle well, you might need to floc again. Use a polymeric flocculant, not aluminum sulfate if you're on a vinyl liner (alum can stain vinyl).

• If you missed some areas, wait 4–6 hours for debris to resettle, then vacuum again.

Before we answer this, it’s worth mentioning that a saltwater pool is a chlorine pool, since it generates chlorine from salt.

Whether you should get a saltwater or traditional chlorine sanitization system depends on several key factors like maintenance preferences, upfront and ongoing costs, water feel, and long-term durability of your pool equipment.

Here’s a breakdown to help you choose:

Saltwater System

✅ Pros:

• Softer water feel – less harsh on skin, eyes, and swimwear.

• Lower chlorine odor – generates chlorine from salt, so it's more stable and gentle.

• Less manual chlorine handling – the system produces chlorine automatically.

• More stable chlorine levels – due to continuous generation.

❌ Cons:

• Higher upfront cost – saltwater generators typically cost $1,000–$2,000 installed.

• Cell replacement – salt cells usually last 3–7 years and cost $400–$800 to replace.

• Can be corrosive – saltwater can damage metal fixtures, heaters, and some types of stonework (like flagstone or travertine).

• Requires balancing chemistry – especially pH and stabilizer (CYA).

Best for:

People who want lower-maintenance chlorine production and a more comfortable swim experience, and who are okay with the higher initial investment.

Traditional Chlorine Pool

✅ Pros:

• Lower upfront cost – no need for special equipment.

• Flexible chlorine sources – tabs, liquid, or granular.

• No salt-related corrosion issues.

❌ Cons:

• More frequent maintenance – you have to test and add chlorine manually or with a feeder.

• Stronger chlorine odor and potential for skin/eye irritation.

• Handling chemicals – bulk chlorine can be hazardous and unpleasant to work with.

Best for:

Those who want lower initial costs, don’t mind manual chemical management, and want to avoid salt-related equipment or surface issues.

Bottom Line

• Choose saltwater if you prioritize comfort, automation, and softer-feeling water, and don’t mind a larger upfront investment and occasional equipment replacements.

• Choose chlorine if you want a simpler, cheaper setup, especially if you have natural stone features or older equipment that might not tolerate salt.

This is a highly debated topic. We work closely with Polaris/Fluidra, so most of what you’ll see in our store will be Polaris products.

We’ll discuss our 2 favorites in detail below:

💪 Best Pressure-Side Pool Cleaner

Polaris 280

The Polaris 280 is one of the most popular and long-standing pressure-side automatic pool cleaners on the market. It’s known for its durability, strong performance in debris-heavy pools, and wide availability of replacement parts. Here's a detailed breakdown:

✅ Pros of the Polaris 280

1. Powerful Suction and Cleaning Performance

• Uses dual venturi jets to create strong suction, making it effective at picking up large debris like leaves, acorns, and pebbles—a key advantage over suction-side or robotic cleaners which may clog.

• Has a large throat opening and a big filter bag that traps debris before it reaches your pool filter, reducing strain on your pool’s filtration system.

2. Reliable and Durable

• Extremely mechanically simple with gears and belts that are easy to service.

• Built to last; many owners report 10–15 years of life with occasional part replacement.

• Polaris parts are widely available and affordable—a big plus for long-term ownership.

3. Cleans Pool Quickly

• The 280 can clean most average in-ground pools in 2 to 3 hours.

• It covers the pool floor and lower walls efficiently with a random but effective pattern.

4. Independent of Pool Filtration

• Operates using a dedicated pressure line powered by a separate booster pump, so it won’t bog down your main filter or pump.

• Debris goes into its own filter bag, keeping the load off your main filter system.

5. TailSweep Pro Compatibility

• Works well with the TailSweep Pro attachment, which eliminates water spray outside the pool and improves wall cleaning performance.

❌ Cons of the Polaris 280

1. Requires a Booster Pump

• Needs a separate booster pump, which adds $250–$450 to the installation cost and increases electricity usage.

• If your pool doesn't already have a dedicated pressure line, installing one can be costly and labor-intensive.

2. No Smart Navigation

• Lacks the intelligent navigation found in robotic models—it moves randomly, and may miss spots occasionally.

• You may have to manually redirect it once in a while or use a pool brush for corners or steps.

3. Maintenance and Wear Parts

• Belts, wheels, and bearings wear out over time, usually every 1–2 seasons depending on use.

• While parts are cheap, regular maintenance is essential (tightening screws, replacing tires, inspecting the drive shaft, etc.).

4. Can Get Stuck

• Occasionally gets caught on main drains, pool ladders, or sharp corners, although less frequently than some suction-side cleaners.

• Can tangle hoses if improperly adjusted.

5. Not Ideal for Fine Debris

• Struggles with very fine dirt or sand—the mesh bag may allow some particles to pass through.

• This makes it less ideal for desert climates or pools with dust issues unless used with a fine mesh bag.

The Polaris 280 is best suited for in-ground pools with a dedicated pressure line and booster pump, especially in leafy or debris-heavy environments. It's a great choice if you value a rugged, field-proven, easy-to-maintain cleaner over fancy features.

Mullins Pools also offers the Polaris TR28P, an updated model of the Polaris 280.

🧠 Best Smart Robotic Pool Cleaner

Polaris Alpha IQ+

The Polaris Alpha iQ+ (also called the Polaris VRX iQ+) is one of Polaris's flagship robotic pool cleaners, packed with advanced features like app control, smart navigation, and self-adjusting cleaning cycles. It's designed for premium performance and minimal user intervention.

Here’s a detailed breakdown of its pros and cons:

✅ Pros of the Polaris Alpha iQ+

1. Smart Navigation (Sensor Nav System™)

• Uses onboard sensors and gyroscopes to learn your pool's layout (shape, size, slope) and optimize cleaning paths.

• Avoids random movement—much more efficient than older models like the Polaris 280.

2. iAquaLink® App Control

• Full remote control via smartphone: schedule cleanings, select cleaning modes, check status, even stop or start it remotely.

• You can also get alerts when cleaning is done or when the filter needs cleaning.

3. Energy-Efficient and No Booster Pump Needed

• Plugs into a standard wall outlet—doesn’t require a booster pump or dedicated pressure line.

• Very energy-efficient: uses much less electricity than pressure-side cleaners with booster pumps.

4. Multi-Surface Cleaning

• Climbs walls, floors, and tile lines effectively thanks to strong water-jet propulsion and a four-wheel drive system.

• Has a cyclonic vacuum system that maintains suction as the debris collects.

5. Easy Clean Filter Canister

• No debris bags to deal with—just pop out the filter canister, hose it off, and you're done.

• Comes with a transparent window and LED indicator for when it’s full.

6. Four Cleaning Modes

• Options include floor-only, floor + walls, waterline-only, and SMART cycle (which auto-adjusts cleaning duration based on your pool’s needs).

7. Lifts Out of the Water with a Button

• Press a button in the app and the cleaner drives to the waterline and waits to be removed—no yanking cables or heavy lifting from the deep end.

❌ Cons of the Polaris Alpha iQ+

1. High Price

• One of the most expensive residential pool cleaners on the market—typically around $1,500 to $1,800 USD.

• For smaller or simpler pools, this could be overkill.

2. Not Ideal for Heavy Leaf Debris

• While it does well with sand, dirt, and small leaves, large leaf volumes can clog the filter quickly or reduce efficiency.

• May require emptying the canister mid-cycle in heavily wooded areas.

3. Cord Management

• Even with a swivel cable, there’s still a chance of cord tangling, especially in freeform or kidney-shaped pools.

• This is a common tradeoff with corded robotic cleaners (vs. cordless models).

4. Weight

• Weighs over 20 pounds, which makes it heavier than pressure-side models like the Polaris 280.

• Though it has an auto-surface feature to help with removal, lifting it out can still be awkward for some users.

5. No Manual Spot Cleaning Tool

• You can't steer it manually with a joystick in the app (some competitors like Dolphin do allow this).

• So if you see debris in one spot, you can’t precisely direct the cleaner there—have to let the SMART cycle do the job.

The Polaris Alpha iQ+ is perfect if you:

• Want hands-off automation.

• Value smart features and a cleaner that adapts to your pool over time.

• Don’t want to deal with a booster pump or external filter bags.

• Have a geometric or freeform in-ground pool with mostly fine or moderate debris.

There are many other options on the market, and we sell a few other models as well. We encourage you to shop around for the cleaner that best suites your needs, and while doing so, be sure to scrutinize the seller’s warranty policy!

🟤 1. Metal Stains

These are some of the most common and most misunderstood stains in pools.

🔍 Causes

• Iron (reddish-brown or rusty)

• Copper (turquoise, teal, or light green. In some cases, copper stains can appear as light brown, gray, or even black, especially after being shocked with chlorine. )

• Manganese (dark purple, black, or brown)

• Source: Well water, old pool equipment (copper pipes, heat exchangers), fertilizers, algaecides, or corroding heater elements.

🧪 Test

• Use a Vitamin C tablet: hold it on the stain for 30 seconds. If it fades, it's almost certainly a metal stain, most often iron.

🧼 Removal

• Ascorbic acid (Vitamin C powder) – best for iron.

• Citric acid – also effective, especially for copper.

• Brush gently after applying.

• Follow with metal sequestrant (e.g., Jack’s Magic, Orenda SC-1000, or Natural Chemistry Metal Free) to keep metals in suspension.

• Balance water chemistry, especially pH and alkalinity, to prevent recurrence.

🟢 2. Organic Stains

🔍 Causes

• Leaves, berries, algae, dead worms or frogs, etc.

• Look for tan, green, or brown stains, especially in corners or near return jets.

🧪 Test

• Try applying chlorine directly or placing a chlorine puck on the stain (for 1–2 minutes).

• If it fades or disappears, it's an organic stain.

🧼 Removal

• Shock the pool with a strong oxidizer (cal hypo or liquid chlorine).

• Use enzyme-based cleaners if you suspect oils or decaying organic matter.

• Brush the stain area thoroughly.

• Keep the pool well-circulated to prevent dead spots.

⚫ 3. Algae Stains

Black algae in particular leaves long-lasting marks. Though not technically a stain, it’s worth mentioning here, as it often gets confused for other types of stains.

🔍 Causes

• Black algae in pools is primarily caused by poor water balance, specifically low chlorine levels and high phosphate levels. It's also known to thrive in areas with minimal water circulation, like corners and behind ladders. Additionally, contamination from pool equipment or swimwear used in natural water sources can introduce black algae spores. 

• Black algae roots itself into plaster or rough pool surfaces.

• Appears as black dots that don't brush off easily.

🧼 Removal

• Scrub with a wire algae brush (if you have a plaster surface).

• Shock with a high dose of chlorine.

• Follow up with brushing and filtering for several days.

• If problem persists, a black algae-specific algaecide can be used.

🟠 4. Rust Stains

🔍 Causes

• Rebar close to surface rusting through gunite.

• Metal objects (like hairpins, nails, tools) left in pool.

• Light niche or ladder anchors leaking rust.

🧼 Removal

• Small localized stains: use a Vitamin C tablet or ascorbic acid paste.

• If rebar is leaching: must drill and seal the area with epoxy or cut out and patch—a resurfacing pro may be needed.

• Don’t just mask it with stain removers if it's structural.

⚙️ 5. Scale Deposits (Often mistaken for stains)

🔍 Causes

• Hard water + high pH and/or high calcium levels.

• Appears as white, gray, or brown chalky crust.

• Often forms at waterline or on tile.

🧼 Removal

• Pumice stone or scale remover pad (on tile).

• Use acid-based descalers or mild muriatic acid on plaster (very carefully).

• Lower pH and calcium hardness to stop recurrence.

🟣 6. Manganese (Well Water) Stains

🔍 Appearance

• Purplish-black streaks or blotches, especially around steps, returns, or shallow areas.

• Common in well water pools after shocking.

🧼 Removal

• Ascorbic or citric acid treatment.

• Use a metal sequestrant immediately after.

• Consider installing a pre-filter on your hose if filling with well water.

✅ General Stain Removal Steps

1. Identify the stain using ascorbic acid and chlorine puck tests.

2. Balance water chemistry – especially pH (~7.2), alkalinity (~80 ppm), and calcium (~200–400 ppm).

3. Apply stain treatment appropriate to the type.

4. Use a sequestrant afterward to keep metals in solution.

5. Filter continuously for 24–48 hours and clean the filter.

6. Avoid shocking immediately after acid treatments, as it can re-precipitate metals.

🛑 Things to Avoid

• Don't throw tablets or shock directly on the plaster—this can bleach or etch it.

• Don’t add algaecides or phosphate removers during metal treatments unless the label says it's safe.

• Don’t ignore repeating stains—they usually indicate an ongoing source (e.g., high metal levels, fertilizer drift, well water).